Creating my way to Success

Times tables memory game pockets - a tutorial

My two daughters, and ages 6 and 8 are both learning their times tables. I've been helping them along the way - and learning too about the best ways to teach them. My dad was a maths teacher - and I remember doing lots of work with my times tables at home as a kid, so I have lots of experience to draw upon!

One thing I've found that works really well, and they love doing is playing 'Memory' or 'Pairs' - the card game where you have to match 2 cards and pair them off.

So as we've worked our way through the tables, I've been making them sets of Memory cards.

It then seemed important to make something to keep these sets of game cards in. Something that they could easily find the set they're looking for and so play them by themselves whenever they want!

Times Tables Pockets!

I've also written an ebook on how to teach your kids their times tables in 5 minutes a day. The book includes templates to make all the times tables memory cards.

You can purchase this tutorial and the E-book for teaching your kids their times tables in 5 minutes a day, including all the templates for printing the memory cards all packaged together.

Simply click here to go to Amazon where all my ebooks are now available for purchase.

Now back to the Times Tables Hanging Pockets Tutorial!

First - gather your materials.

You will need:

2 rectangles of fabric for front and back 47cm x 32 cm (18.5" x 12.5")

1 rectangle of interfacing 47cm x 32cm (18.5" x 12.5")

4 rectangles of fabric for pockets 38cm x 10cm (15" x 4")

Vlisoflex (bondaweb) - double sided fusible webbing and chosen material for number and letter applique 76cm x 6cm (30" x 2.5")

Dowel rod 30cm (12")

Ribbon 30cm (12") for loops, plus length for hanging.

First do the applique numbers and letters.

Follow the manufacturer's instruction for your fusible webbing. For vlisoflex, iron one side of the webbing onto the back of the fabric you're using for your numbers and letters. Then write on the paper side all your letters and numbers - BACKWARDS:

Then cut all your letters and numbers out:

Now take the 4 rectangles of fabric you have for your pockets. Take the long side of each pocket - this will be the top of the pocket. Single turn and stitch to hide the raw edge. If your fabric is one that frays, then double turn and stitch:

Now it's time to add your applique letters and numbers.

Place the letters for Times Tables 6cm (2.5") down from the top of the main front rectangle.

The numbers should be evenly spaced 3 on each pocket strip.

Make sure you peel the paper backing off each letter and number before laying them on the fabric!

Using a damp cloth, iron each number and letter into place:

Then using a wide zig-zag stitch or the applique setting on your machine, stitch around each number and letter:

Now turn over the bottom of each pocket strip and press.

Now you need to pin the pockets to the main front rectangle.

First pin the sides of each pocket in place, then stitch:

Then to pin the rest of the pockets - measure 10 cm increments along the MAIN fabric - folding the fabric so each number is in the middle of that 10cm. and pin the pockets at that 10cm mark:

Do this for all the pockets, then stitch down the pin lines:

Next you need to pin and stitch along the base line of each row of pockets - folding the edges of the pockets as you go:

Now you're ready to put it all together!

Lay down first the interfacing, then the front pocket part you just made, then the backing rectangle face down on top:

Pin and stitch around all 4 edges - leaving a gap along the top edge to turn it all right sides out afterwards:

Trim all four corners:

Then with the 3 ribbon loops tucked into the top seam

(sorry forgot to show the ribbon loops on the photo), topstitch closed.

Then all that remains is to thread the dowel rod through your ribbon loops, and tie the rest of your ribbon to the length required to hang the pockets:

Then fill the pockets with your memory cards:

In case anyone is wondering - the pocket with the "?' just has some random pairs in from all of the times tables!

My 2 girls manage to play these memory games well together - even though the elder one knows her tables better, the younger one is better at the memory side of the game!!

For the downloadable PDF version of this tutorial, click here.

And for over 100 more sewing tutorials for making all kinds of things at all levels of sewing abilities, check out

My Free Sewing Tutorials Page.

Vintage bag - 1930s doris

I love making bags, and have made quite a few of my own design, but I found some books with more patterns and decided to try out someone else's design!

This is doris...

A 1030s inspired bag from Emma Brennan's book

Making Vintage Bags

There are 20 different bags to try in the book - inspired from the 20s to 50s. The book as easy to follow instructions and pattens in the back. She does assume you have basic sewing knowledge - but I think with the aid of Google and You Tube - even if you're a complete beginner, you could give these bags a go!

There are some basic techniques explained at the beginning of the book and she also suggests types of fabrics, handles and fasteners; as well as showing how to make various embellishments for your bags.

The patterns at the back of the book can be photocopied and enlarged to the necessary size; and the photos throughout the book provide a great addition to her clear explanations of the steps to make the bags.

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I chose to try the doris bag - as it suited some pretty material my mum had sent me for my birthday a few months ago. I also used velcro for the closure as I didn't have a magnetic snap! Not very vintage - but simple and effective - and since you don't see the closure, it doesn't really matter!

I'm very pleased with how it turned out - a nice cute little handbag, which didn't take long at all to make!

What do you think?

Have you tried any sewing pattern books? Do you have any you would recommend?

How to make a dressing gown or bath robe

Here in Australia it's winter now - and with the cool mornings we've been having lately, I decided to make my girls dressing gowns to keep them cosy and warm!

I made them nice and big - so they can wrap them snug around themselves - and so that they can also grow into them. Up here in the tropics, we don't get to wear things like dressing gowns very often, so I want them to last for a good few years of growth!

So here's how to make them if you want to try one yourself!

All you need is some fleecy, cosy material, and a sweater that fits now!

So first of all, lay the sweater on your fleece, with the arms (and a hood if it has one) folded in, so you can clearly see the outline of the back of the sweater:

Then cut around the outline of the back of the sweater, leaving a gap of around 5cm (2") all the way around. This allows for seams, and plenty of room for growth!

For the length - choose how long you want the robe to be. I measured from my daughter's neck to the ground and made it arond this length. If it's too long, you can always make the hem at the bottom wider - and it then gives more room to grow again!

Now fold this back piece in half, and trim the edges to make sure it's all even.

Now lay this folded back onto more of the fleece, and cut two front panels - around 5cm (2") wider than half the backing. Make sure you cut one left and one right side!

Now put both front panels together and curve the front neckline a little by trimming:

So now you have one back and two front panels cut:

Now you need to cut 2 sleeves.

Again use the sweater you have that fits, and lay it on a folded piece of fleece:

Now cut around the sleeve leaving the same 5cm (2" gap). Once again, longer is better as sleeves can always be rolled up! You need to cut two sleeves - one left and one right!

The final pieces you need to cut are:

2 pieces 18cm x 6cm (7" x 2.5") for the strap loops at the side.

1 long piece for the strap, mine was 2m x 16cm (79" x 6.5") - this allowed LOTS to tie around - you could go with less, depending on waist size!

1 long piece for the opening trim 10cm (4") x over 2m (79"). This is roughly twice the length of the robe, plus the neck width. I joined pieces together to make mine extra long - then trimmed it at the end when I pinned it on.

Now it's time to start sewing!

Take your 2 rectangles that you cut for the side loops for the strap.

Fold them lengthways in to the centre, then in half again and stitch along close to the edge.

Repeat for the other rectangle to give you two strips like this:

Now you need to pin the front and back panels together - right sides facing. Pin the two loop straps you just stitched in around waist length (again you can check this from the sweater you are using).

Pin on the shoulders and down the side seams. Remember to leave the arm holes open!!

Pin both front panels on - making sure the strap loops are level on both sides. Then stitch. I generally use a 0.5cm (3/8") seam all the way.

Now for the sleeves.

Fold both right sides together, and pin then stitch along the opposite side to the fold.

Now, keeping the main body of the robe still inside out, turn the sleeves right side out and push through the arm holes matching up the edges. Make sure you have the longer length of the sleeve at the top end of the robe! Pin then stitch both sleeves into place.

Now for the trim around the opening. Take your 10cm (4") wide strip and fold in in half lengthways - right sides facing OUTWARDS!

Then starting at the bottom of one front panel - pin to the front opening - up and around the back of the neck - and back down the other front panel. Then trim the end, and stitch into place.

Then fold the trim flat and topstitch close to the seam, catching the edges of the seam in on the bottom to hold them flat.

Now finish off your hems - at the ends of both sleeves, and the bottom of the robe, by double turning over and stitching down.

Now to finish all you need to do is the strap!

Fold it lengthways both sides to the centre, then in half again and stitch along all four edges. Remember to turn both short sides over to hide the raw edges too!